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TOP
IMAGE: CARRIE FISHER (NOTE
- IMAGE WAS REVERSED IN THE MAGAZINE)
BOTTOM IMAGE: MY CEREMONIAL GOWN
The
Ceremonial gown is is similar to an empire
waist dress. But the bodice is actually made up of an upper
bust panel and a lower panel that then connects with the skirt at
the waist. This helps give the gown a fitted waist line, and the
belt covers this seam. The skirt is A line in shape and has a small
train in the back. The gown consists of 2 layers (a third lining
layer is optional):
Outer
Layer - A sheer matt textured fabric similar in weight and
opacity to a double
georgette, yet it's not quite as thin as a 8mm chiffon in
my opinion. The outer layer may have stretch to it, and it is
possible that it is a matt nylon like tricot. The outer layer
is used on the skirt, the back of the bodice, and on the "sleeve"
piece that is actually also a part of the front of the outer layer
of the bodice.
Opaque
Layer - This lies just underneath the outer layer. This fabric
seems to have a smooth matt finish and may have some stretch to
it like qiana
(a silk like nylon fabric popular in the 1970s), or a nylon/lycra
blend.
Lining
Layer - It is doubtful that there is a third layer of lining
because it looks as though the neck and armscye was finished
off with an inner facing, but it is an option used by some to
prevent the dress from being too sheer and eliminates the need
for a slip.
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LEFT
IMAGE: ZIPPER DETAIL
The dress
does not have any princess seams. There are only side seams, as
well as the seam below the bust and the seams used to join the bodice
to the skirt in the front and back of the dress. There is no center
back seam, and the dress unzips on the left side of the body. There
may be darts in the opaque layer of the bodice under the bust. It
is unknown if darts are used in the back of the dress to fit the
waist.
The long
sheer sleeves of this dress are unique, as they are not sleeves
at all! The fabric drapes over the arms like wings, which gives
them a cape-like effect as the hem falls just a few inches shy of
the ground.
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PATTERNS
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LEFT
IMAGE: VOGUE PATTERN 7570
PATTERN
SUGGESTIONS: I used Vogue
Pattern 7570 View C as a base for my dress. It has the upside-down
V bodice, a zipper on the left side and was fairly fitted. I had
to alter the neckline into a U shape rather than a deep V, and darts
were added to the back near the waist to give the dress a fitted
look. The gathers under the bust were replaced with a dart. Other
pattern possibilities are Simplicity 5681
and 5049. However,
these dresses are not very fitted and I don't believe the gathers
under the bust are accurate. With some modifying they could be made
to work. Aiel at the JC
Forums recently used McCall's
3954. The seam connecting the bodice to the skirt in the front
would simply need to be modified into the upsidedown V line, the
center back seam eliminated and the zipper moved to the left side.
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FABRIC
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OUTER
SHEER LAYER - For my outer layer I used
a 60" wide polyester double georgette in white purchased from
Fabric Mart in San Jose, Ca. I may make a second version of this dress
using a matt tricot. However, I'm not sure how well the tricot will
wear as some that I've found seem to snag easily. The georgette has
actually worn very well and withstood multiple washings.
OPAQUE
LOWER LAYER - For my opaque layer I used a matt polyester crepe
purchased from Britex Fabrics in San Francisco. For a polyester
it had a very fluid silky flow and draped quite well.
I
added an inner lining layer as well because my dress was quite see-through
without it. I used a light weight polyester lining from JoAnn's
Fabrics.
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REFERENCE
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