Kay Dee Designs
 

 

COSTUMES

STAR WARS EPISODE IV: A NEW HOPE
PRINCESS LEIA CEREMONIAL GOWN (AKA CELEBRATION GOWN)


PHOTOS | DRESS OVERVIEW | CONSTRUCTION TIPS | NECKLACE RESEARCH | BRACELET


DRESS OVERVIEW

PATTERNS | FABRIC | PHOTOS


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TOP IMAGE: CARRIE FISHER (NOTE - IMAGE WAS REVERSED IN THE MAGAZINE)
BOTTOM IMAGE: MY CEREMONIAL GOWN

The Ceremonial gown is is similar to an empire waist dress. But the bodice is actually made up of an upper bust panel and a lower panel that then connects with the skirt at the waist. This helps give the gown a fitted waist line, and the belt covers this seam. The skirt is A line in shape and has a small train in the back. The gown consists of 2 layers (a third lining layer is optional):

Outer Layer - A sheer matt textured fabric similar in weight and opacity to a double georgette, yet it's not quite as thin as a 8mm chiffon in my opinion. The outer layer may have stretch to it, and it is possible that it is a matt nylon like tricot. The outer layer is used on the skirt, the back of the bodice, and on the "sleeve" piece that is actually also a part of the front of the outer layer of the bodice.

Opaque Layer - This lies just underneath the outer layer. This fabric seems to have a smooth matt finish and may have some stretch to it like qiana (a silk like nylon fabric popular in the 1970s), or a nylon/lycra blend.

Lining Layer - It is doubtful that there is a third layer of lining because it looks as though the neck and armscye was finished off with an inner facing, but it is an option used by some to prevent the dress from being too sheer and eliminates the need for a slip.

 



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LEFT IMAGE: ZIPPER DETAIL

The dress does not have any princess seams. There are only side seams, as well as the seam below the bust and the seams used to join the bodice to the skirt in the front and back of the dress. There is no center back seam, and the dress unzips on the left side of the body. There may be darts in the opaque layer of the bodice under the bust. It is unknown if darts are used in the back of the dress to fit the waist.

The long sheer sleeves of this dress are unique, as they are not sleeves at all! The fabric drapes over the arms like wings, which gives them a cape-like effect as the hem falls just a few inches shy of the ground.

 


PATTERNS


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LEFT IMAGE: VOGUE PATTERN 7570

PATTERN SUGGESTIONS: I used Vogue Pattern 7570 View C as a base for my dress. It has the upside-down V bodice, a zipper on the left side and was fairly fitted. I had to alter the neckline into a U shape rather than a deep V, and darts were added to the back near the waist to give the dress a fitted look. The gathers under the bust were replaced with a dart. Other pattern possibilities are Simplicity 5681 and 5049. However, these dresses are not very fitted and I don't believe the gathers under the bust are accurate. With some modifying they could be made to work. Aiel at the JC Forums recently used McCall's 3954. The seam connecting the bodice to the skirt in the front would simply need to be modified into the upsidedown V line, the center back seam eliminated and the zipper moved to the left side.


FABRIC

 

OUTER SHEER LAYER - For my outer layer I used a 60" wide polyester double georgette in white purchased from Fabric Mart in San Jose, Ca. I may make a second version of this dress using a matt tricot. However, I'm not sure how well the tricot will wear as some that I've found seem to snag easily. The georgette has actually worn very well and withstood multiple washings.

OPAQUE LOWER LAYER - For my opaque layer I used a matt polyester crepe purchased from Britex Fabrics in San Francisco. For a polyester it had a very fluid silky flow and draped quite well.

I added an inner lining layer as well because my dress was quite see-through without it. I used a light weight polyester lining from JoAnn's Fabrics.


REFERENCE PHOTOS

     
 
HIGH RES
 



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