LEFT IMAGE:
SEAM PLACEMENT ON SLEEVE

RIGHT IMAGE:
YELLOW UNDER SLEEVE

The sleeves of this gown are fitted from shoulder to elbow, they then transition into a large semicircular shape. The upper fitted portion of the sleeve is made from lace fabric (fabric details on fabric page), and the lower circular portion of the sleeve is made from green silk velvet.

The seam of the sleeve extends from the under arm out to a few inches below the wrist (unlike some renaissance patterns which place the seam at the bottom of the sleeve). The hem is a lettuce edge - a zig zag type stitch applied to the raw edge.

There is also a sheer yellow under sleeve made from a crinkled fabric (probably silk or silk blend). The edge of this sleeve was also hemmed with a lettuce edge (very small zigzag stitch using a matching thread). The pattern used to construc the under sleeve seems to be the same as the outer sleeve in fullness and length.

RIGHT IMAGE:
SLEEVE EMBROIDERY NOTES

At first glance it appears that the upper sleeve is made from two sections of fabric. This is just an illusion created by the added embroidery and beading near the elbow to create a banded effect. The lace is actually all one piece from shoulder to elbow.

The embroidery was done with silver metallic floss (several strands of floss used in the needle). A chain stitch was applied at the seam where the velvet and lace join near the elbow. A second chain stitch was added just a few inches above the seam to create the band. The chain stitch was then bordered with a row of clear iridescent bugle beads (2-3mm size) on either side.

The center of this 'band' has silver embroidery detailing as well. A chain stitch was used again to create a swirled vine and leaf motif similar to the one used on the yoke of the inner dress. Many of the leaves and some of the vine branching points are filled with clusters of the clear bugle beads.